It seems like a very long time ago. It was. Between my junior and senior year in college I went to France for the summer. The goal was to get to know my fiancé’s French family in Paris. Much of the time I spent with his grandmother, Mathilde, an art historian and accomplished home cook. I fell in love with her and her irresistible French cuisine.

If it was just the two of us for dinner and the weather was hot, she would often turn to artichokes as the evening special. I’d grown up dipping the leaves and heart in mayonnaise. Mathilde preferred a frisky vinaigrette for dunking those tender-cooked artichoke parts. Since then, I’ve never gone back to mayo.

She cooked the artichokes in a pressure cooker; she appreciated the speed. I prefer a gentle boil in salted water on top of the stove, partially covered.

Artichoke prepping: Wash in cold water. Using sharp knife, cut off stem at base (you can leave stem in place and peel it with a vegetable peeler — but you won’t be able to stand the artichokes upright in the pan — use a deeper pan and enough salted water to almost cover them and turn them a few times during cooking). Cut off the top 1-inch from the tip. Use kitchen scissors to trim tips of remaining leaves. Cut lemon in half and rub on cut portions.

Artichokes with Vinaigrette for Dipping

Yield: 2 to 4 servings

INGREDIENTS

2 to 4 fresh artichokes, prepped

1 lemon

Salt for water

Vinaigrette

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar or apple cider vinegar

3/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon honey

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Cook’s notes: To eat the artichoke, grasp leaf by tip and tug the meaty end between almost-closed teeth to scrape away the luscious meat. Using the tip of a teaspoon to pluck hair-like choke from heart. The choke-free heart will be bowl shaped and can be enjoyed in its entirety.

DIRECTIONS

1. To cook prepped artichokes: Place artichokes upright in deep, nonreactive saucepan (or if cooking 4 artichokes use a Dutch oven). Add enough water to come halfway up the side of artichokes and a pinch of salt to the water. Bring to boil on high heat. Partially cover and reduce heat to gentle boil; cook until fork tender at base, 35 to 45 minutes. Drain upside down. Serve when cool enough to handle, either warm or at room temperature.

2. In a bowl or measuring cup with a handle, add all the vinaigrette ingredients. Whisk to combine. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

3. Serve each artichoke accompanied by a small bowl of vinaigrette.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.