Cold helpings of gazpacho are a welcome hot weather treat. Prepared in advance and served chilled, cooks can kick back and enjoy its summertime irresistibility. If you wish, let family and guests serve themselves. Relax and savor the seasonality.
Red gazpacho is a perky, uncooked tomato-based broth generously studded with diced raw cucumber, bell pepper and onion. Generally, it’s more like a delectably damp chopped salad than soup.
Sip, chew. Sip, chew.
This scarlet concoction has roots in Andalusia, Spain. And although there are other Spanish gazpachos (a white type made with vegetable broth from Estremadura, and a creamy, cold almond variety embellished with grapes from Malaga), it’s the tomato-y version that’s most often embraced on both sides of the Atlantic.
It makes an irresistible first course or main event, with the optional addition of cooked seafood. Chefs have their favorites, using a wide diversity of ingredients as well as preparation techniques. Some like to puree a fresh tomato-vegetable mixture, then add diced vegetables as a garnish. Some use a base of tomato juice and simply stir the veggies into the juice along with a spice mixture.
The late James Beard, culinarian and dean of American cooking, froze ice-cube portions of tomato juice and added one to each gazpacho serving. It ensured a good chill.
I spend much of my time in the kitchen testing new recipes, but it is a joy to celebrate the season’s warmth with gazpachos from my past. To follow are my two favorite gazpacho formulas that I have been making for years, plus a pasta salad dish that uses signature ingredients.
Make it and pop it in the fridge, then pull up a lounge chair and chill out.
The Ritz Gazpacho
Longtime residents of Orange County might remember The Ritz in Newport Beach and its signature gazpacho. Long shuttered, the restaurant’s concoction was irresistible, a beautiful display of summer produce. Crisp tortilla strips make a delicious garnish, as does the addition of cooked baby shrimp or crab. Yes, I’ve been making it part of my summer repertoire for over two decades. It’s too good not to repeat it every year.
Yield: 12 to 14 servings
INGREDIENTS
For gazpacho:
1 large English (hothouse) cucumber, peeled, finely diced; see cook’s notes
2 stalks celery, trimmed, finely diced
1 medium white onion, finely diced
1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, finely diced
1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, finely diced
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, finely diced
6 Roma tomatoes, seeded, finely diced
1 large clove garlic, minced
1 small jalapeño chili, seeded, minced; see cook’s notes
1 tablespoon chopped cilantro
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
32 ounces tomato juice
4 (8-ounce) cans clam juice
2 cups chicken broth
Salt and pepper to taste
For garnish: Cooked baby shrimp or crab
Thinly sliced fried tortillas; see cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: Hothouse cucumbers generally have very small seeds and do not require you to remove them. If using other varieties of cucumbers, remove seeds by cutting in half lengthwise; run bowl of spoon down center of cut edge to scoop out seeds.
Use caution when working with fresh chilies. Upon completion, wash hands and work surface thoroughly and do NOT touch your eyes or face.
To make tortilla strip garnish, cut corn tortillas into very thin strips, about 1 1/2 inches long. Heat 1 inch vegetable oil or canola oil in medium deep skillet. Add tortilla strips, being careful not to add too many at one time; fry until crisp and drain on paper towels. Or, if you prefer, you can bake them: Place thin strips of tortillas in single layer on baking sheet. Place in center of 350-degree oven until tortillas are lightly brown and crisp, about 3-5 minutes.
DIRECTIONS
1. In nonreactive container, such as glass or ceramic, combine all ingredients (except garnishes); stir. Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Stir and ladle into bowls. Top each with about 2 tablespoons shrimp or crab, and some thin strips of fried tortillas. Serve.
Sutton Place Hotel’s Two-Tone Lobster Gazpacho
The original Sutton Place Hotel in Newport Beach was re-branded and transformed over the years and is now the Renaissance Newport Beach Hotel. Back in the day, Chef Dominique Briaire served beautiful two-tone bowls of gazpacho, half the bowl was filled with yellow gazpacho made with yellow-hued tomatoes, the opposite side showcased a red-tomato version. It’s a stunning presentation and turns gazpacho into a dinner party dish. If you prefer, substitute small, cooked shrimp for the lobster in the recipe.
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
For red gazpacho:
4 vine-ripened red tomatoes, diced
1/4 pound white bread (about 5 slices country white bread), torn into pieces
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/2 English (hothouse) cucumber, peeled, diced
2 large red bell peppers, cored, seeded, diced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
Leaves from 1 small bunch fresh basil, chopped
Salt and pepper to taste
For yellow gazpacho:
4 vine-ripened yellow tomatoes
1/4 pound white bread (about 5 slices country white bread), torn into pieces
1/2 cup chopped yellow onion
1 large clove garlic, minced
1/2 English (hothouse) cucumber, peeled, diced
2 large yellow bell peppers, cored, seeded, diced
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup sherry vinegar
1 cup orange juice
Salt and pepper to taste
For garnish:
Diced cooked lobster or crab or shrimp
Finely chopped green and red bell peppers
Finely chopped onion, finely chopped English cucumber
Optional: Finely chopped pitted imported black olives
Croutons; See cook’s notes
Cook’s notes: To save time and because I like the consistency of unstrained gazpacho, I don’t strain the mixture after pureeing; it’s more rustic and has a coarser texture.
To make croutons, preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine 3 cups 3/8-inch white bread cubes (either baguette or country white) with 2 large cloves garlic (minced), 1/4 teaspoon salt and 3 1/2 tablespoons olive oil; toss. Spread into single layer on rimmed baking sheet. Bake in middle of preheated oven, stirring occasionally, about 10-15 minutes or until golden. Cool on sheet.
DIRECTIONS
1. Place red gazpacho ingredients in nonreactive bowl, such as glass or ceramic; cover and refrigerate overnight. Meanwhile, place yellow gazpacho ingredients in a second nonreactive bowl; cover and refrigerate overnight.
2. Puree red and yellow mixtures separately in food processor fitted with metal blade until pureed. Strain each into separate bowls through fine strainer (see cook’s notes). Taste and adjust seasonings as needed. Chill separately.
3. Place each gazpacho in small pitcher. Using shallow soup bowls, pour each gazpacho simultaneously into opposite sides of bowl. Garnish with diced cooked seafood (lobster, crab or shrimp), finely chopped vegetables (and olives, if desired) and croutons. Serve immediately.
Gazpacho Pasta Salad
If you would like to showcase the traditional gazpacho components in something other than a soup, try this Gazpacho Pasta Salad. The dressing is made by pureeing diced canned tomatoes with garlic, red pepper flakes, and fresh basil, as well as red wine vinegar and salt. It’s tossed with the cooked pasta along with cucumber, bell peppers, and cherry tomatoes. A tasty garnish of black olives and crumbled feta cheese is scattered on top.
Yield: 8 to 10 servings
INGREDIENTS
3 large, peeled garlic cloves
1/4 cup packed fresh basil leaves
1 (14 1/2-ounce) can diced tomatoes (do not drain)
1 teaspoon dried red chili flakes
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 teaspoon salt, plus 1 tablespoon salt for pasta water
Optional: 1 teaspoon Frank’s RedHot hot sauce, to taste
Seasoned salt, such as Spike, to taste
1 pound dried rotini pasta
1/2 large hothouse cucumber, “zebra cut” (use swivel peeler to remove alternate strips of peel), halved lengthwise, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch wide pieces
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded, diced
1 medium yellow bell pepper, cored seeded, diced
2 cups cherry tomatoes, halved
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
3 green onions, thinly sliced, included most of the dark green stalks
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Seasoned salt, such as Spike
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
1/2 cup pitted Kalamata olives, halved
DIRECTIONS
1. With the food processor running, drop the garlic in the feed-tube. When garlic is minced, add the basil with the motor running; mince the basil. Add tomatoes, pepper flakes, vinegar, and 1 teaspoon salt; process until pureed. Taste. It should taste perky; add Frank’s RedHot, if needed, and seasoned salt to taste. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.
2. Bring large pot of salted water to a boil on high heat (use 1 tablespoon salt). Cook according to package directions until al dente (tender but still a little firm to the bite). Drain in colander and run cold water on top. Shake colander to remove excess water.
3. In a large serving bowl, add cucumber, bell peppers, tomatoes, parsley, green onions, and oil; toss to combine and season to taste with a judicious amount of seasoned salt (more can be added later if needed). Add pasta and pureed dressing and toss. Salad can be refrigerated overnight if desired.
4. Scatter cheese and olives over top. Serve chilled or at room temperature.