For weeks, shoppers at my local Trader Joe’s have been eager to embrace the season. With childlike grins, they load their carts with one or two large jack-o’-lantern pumpkins from the supply outside the front door. Some add a fairy-tale pumpkin, the type with pale tan skin sometimes streaked with green. Deeply fluted and squatty, these pumpkins look whimsical, like Cinderella’s carriage after the stroke of midnight.
Some focus on sweet pie pumpkins. Those rounded, burnt-orange lovelies are the ones that are best for baking. Usually about the size of a large grapefruit, sweet pie pumpkins have thick walls. The flesh is smooth and less stringy than their jack-o’ brothers. The flavor is deeper, the taste sweeter. Once steamed or baked, they’re puréed and turned into pies and cakes, puddings and cookies, pancakes and muffins.
For several years it has been my Thanksgiving tradition to line the center of dining table with an assortment of large and small pumpkins. The dessert offerings on the big day include pumpkin pie and an additional, less traditional, offering with a pumpkin theme. Pumpkin Crème Brulee, Pumpkin Whopee Pies, and Pumpkin Cheesecake Squares are some of the favorites.
My post-Thanksgiving goal (it doesn’t always happen), is to cook and freeze the flesh of my decorative tabletop pumpkins.
To steam: Cut off both stem end and flower end with a sharp, sturdy knife. Cut into chunks, leaving skin intact, and scrape out seeds and stringy fibers with a spoon. Place wedges in a vegetable steamer. Cover and steam over boiling water until tender when pierced with point of sharp knife.
Or bake: Cut off both stem end and blossom end. Cut in half from top to bottom; scrape out seeds. Place cut side down on rimmed baking sheet and bake in 350-degree oven for 45 to 75 minutes, or until pumpkin is soft and tender.
Once cool, remove skin before puréeing. Some like to use a food mill, others prefer a food processor fitted with the metal blade. The purée can be refrigerated airtight for up to four days, or frozen in freezer bags or airtight containers for several months. Thaw overnight in refrigerator before using it.
Pumpkin Whoopie Pies with Cream Cheese Filling
Rachel Klemek, executive pastry chef and owner of now-shuttered Blackmarket Bakeries, loves the whimsy of her whoopie pies. She says the name connotes party-like fun. And the treat is a cake that is portable; it can be picked up and easily eaten out of hand. She doesn’t chintz on the creamy filling; it’s added with generosity, piped from a plastic pastry bag to form a thick spiral. Can be prepared 2 days in advance and refrigerated.
Yield: About 10 pies
INGREDIENTS
Soft butter for greasing pan
2 1/2 cups pastry flour or all-purpose flour, see cook’s notes
3 tablespoons ground cinnamon
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
Spices: 3 tablespoons ground cinnamon, 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg, 1 teaspoon ground ginger
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
8 ounces butter (2 sticks), room temperature
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar
2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon molasses
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
3 large eggs (best if eggs aren’t super cold)
1 cup canned pumpkin puree
3 1/2 ounces buttermilk
Filling:
12 ounces cream cheese (not whipped style or reduced fat), softened to room temperature
4 ounces unsalted butter (1 stick), soft
3/4 cup powdered sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or more to taste
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Cook’s notes: Chef Klemek used pastry flour, but said all-purpose could be used. Pastry flour contains 8.5% to 9.5% protein, which is low relative to all-purpose that is between 10% and 12%. Pastry flour produces a finer crumb. If you wish, use half all-purpose and half cake flour (7% to 8% percent protein), such as Swans Down that is sold at most supermarkets.
DIRECTIONS
1. Adjust oven rack to middle position and preheat to 350 degrees. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. Sift together flour, baking powder, spices, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.
2. In large bowl of electric mixer (using the paddle attachment) beat butter, sugar and molasses until blended and fluffy, thick and a pale color, about 3 minutes. Add vanilla and mix until just combined. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Beat until light and fluffy. Add pumpkin and mix just until blended.
3. Add 1/3 of dry ingredients to butter mixture and mix on low speed until barely combined. Stop mixer and pour in half of buttermilk. Mix again just enough to blend. Stop mixer and add another 1/3 of dry mixture; mix just until barely combined. Add remaining buttermilk; mix until just barely combined. Scrape down sides of bowl as needed. Add remaining dry ingredients; mix until just barely well combined. Take bowl off machine and gently fold with silicone spatula, making sure bottom of bowl is included and mixture is homogeneous. Scoop batter into mounds on prepared sheets (the easiest way is to use a 1/4-cup ice cream scoop). Bake immediately, about 10 to 14 minutes, or until skewer inserted in center comes out clean. Cool completely.
4. Meanwhile, prepare filling: In large bowl of electric mixer using the paddle attachment, thoroughly beat cream cheese, scraping bowl as needed, until smooth. Add softened butter and mix on low speed, occasionally scraping the bowl as needed, until combined. Add sugar, cinnamon and vanilla and mix on low speed until combined.
5. Pipe generous amount of cream cheese filling on half of the whoopies (or use a small scoop) — on the flat side — and sandwich two together. Best served the same day.
Pumpkin Cheesecake Crumble Squares
These squares show off a rich, velvety texture contrasted with a crunchy crust and streusel topping. They can be prepared a day in advance and refrigerated.
Yield: 20-24 squares
INGREDIENTS
Crust and Streusel:
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
3/4 cup golden brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled butter (cut into about 10 slices)
1 cup pecan halves
3/4 cup old-fashioned oats
Filling:
2 (8-ounce) packages cream cheese, room temperature
1 1/2 cups canned pure pumpkin puree
1 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
2 1/2 teaspoons pumpkin pie spice
Topping:
2 cups sour cream
4 tablespoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
DIRECTIONS
1. For crust and streusel: Adjust oven rack to middle position. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Generously butter a 13-by-9-inch baking dish. Pulsing on/off, blend flour, sugar, salt and butter in processor until coarse meal forms. Add pecans; pulse on/off until nuts are chopped. Add oats; using on/off, process until mixture is moistened but not clumping. Press 3 3/4 cups of crumb mixture onto bottom of prepared square pan. Transfer remaining mixture to rimmed baking sheet (do NOT wash processor). Bake crumbs on sheet until golden for 9 minutes, stirring after 5 minutes. Cool. Bake crust in dish until a light golden color, for about 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from oven while preparing filling. Maintain oven temperature.
2. Filling: Blend all of the filling ingredients in same processor until smooth. Spread filling over warm crust; bake until set and dry in center, and is beginning to rise at edges, about 30 to 35 minutes. Maintain oven temperature.
3. Topping: Whisk all topping ingredients in small bowl. Gently spread the topping evenly over hot filling. Bake until topping sets and is barely bubbling at edges, about 6 to 8 minutes. Cool completely on rack. Sprinkle crumbs over topping; gently press into topping. Cover and chill until cold, for about 2 hours. Cut into 16 squares.
Source: Adapted from “Bon Appetit Desserts” by Barbara Fairchild (Andrews McMeel, $40)
Pumpkin Crème Brulee
Using a kitchen torch to caramelize sugar atop crème brûlée is best done at the last minute. The in-the-ramekin custards can be made three days ahead and kept in the refrigerator covered with plastic. My family likes to compete making the flame dance atop the pumpkin custard to create that crunchy chestnut-brown crown on each dessert. Some use a circular motion; others like the zigzag approach (best to choose helpers that haven’t consumed wine at dinner).
Yield: 4 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
3/4 teaspoon grated nutmeg
5 egg yolks
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
Pinch of salt
6 tablespoons pumpkin purée
1/3 cup plus 4 teaspoons granulated sugar, divided use
1 tablespoon firmly packed light brown sugar
DIRECTIONS
1. Preheat oven to 300 degrees. Have a pot of boiling water ready.
2. Pour the cream into a small saucepan and whisk in the cinnamon, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. Set over medium-low heat and warm the cream mixture until bubbles form around the edges of the pan and steam begins to rise from the surface (about three minutes). Remove from the heat and let stand for 15 minutes.
3. In a large bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, vanilla, salt, pumpkin purée, the 1/3 cup granulated sugar and the brown sugar until smooth and blended. Slowly pour in the cream mixture, stirring until blended. Pour the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl. Divide the mixture among four 8-ounce ramekins and place in a large baking pan. Add boiling water to fill the pan halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil and bake until the custards are just set around the edges, with a uniform jiggle (about 35 to 45 minutes). If ramekins are deep rather than shallow, the longer cooking time may be required.
4. Transfer the ramekins to a wire rack and let cool to room temperature. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least four hours or up to three days.
5. Just before serving, sprinkle 1 teaspoon granulated sugar evenly over the surface of each custard. Using a kitchen torch according to the manufacturer’s instructions, move the flame continuously in small circles over the surface until the sugar melts and lightly browns. Serve immediately.
Source: “Holiday Baking (Williams Sonoma Kitchen Library)” by Jeanne Thiel Kelley, Chuck Williams and Allan Rosenberg