6 recipes for making the most of a fall fruit bounty

As summer fruit wanes, fall fruits come to the fore, taking us through the early, cooling days of autumn. Some stay with us deep into the holidays.

Fall fruits, in particular, lend themselves to both sweet and savory treatments. Apples and pears can be used almost interchangeably in salads, savory sautés, sweet crisps, crumbles and pies.

Soft Hachiya persimmons moisten and flavor sweets, while firm, crispy Fuyu persimmons become a salad staple. Figs are a world of their own, with a shorter season than other fall fruits. Intensely sweet, they pair equally well with savory and sweet treatments.

Quince is a bit of an outlier. Because it is astringent, nearly inedible when raw, it needs to be cooked first. It can be sauteed in butter or poached in wine for a savory treatment, or in a light sugar syrup for a sweet rendition. Its firm flesh takes on the flavors it is cooked with and enhances the fruit’s natural floral aroma.

Apples, pears, figs and persimmons are ready-made for salty-sweet pairing with cheeses and charcuterie. It can be a simple combination of fresh fruits, chees slices and cured meats on a board, or they can be added to breads or salads.

Autumnal fruits are so user-friendly that they allow us to explore new pairings and flavors and encourage creativity in the kitchen.

Fig, Grape and Blue Cheese Flatbread

Various versions of this flatbread are made in Italy at harvest time and served as a snack, often along with cheese. I’ve incorporated the cheese directly into the dough to make an all-in-one appetizer. Serve the flatbread, cut in wedges, on its own or to accompany a charcuterie board. A slice, stuffed with mortadella and a few arugula leaves, makes a standout sandwich.

Serves 6-8

INGREDIENTS

• 1 package active dry yeast
• 3/4 cup warm (110 degrees) water
• 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
• 1/2 teaspoon fine sea salt
• 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
• 1/2 cup seedless green or red grapes or a mixture, halved, plus 1/4 cup for garnish
• 6 small or 4 large figs, halved or quartered, to make about 1/2 cup
• 3 figs, halved, for garnish
• 2 ounces crumbled blue cheese, such as gorgonzola or Point Reyes Original Blue Cheese
• Coarse sea salt for sprinkling

DIRECTIONS

In a large bowl, dissolve the yeast in the warm water and let stand until foamy, about 5 minutes. With a wooden spoon, stir in 1 1/2 cups of the flour, fine sea salt and the olive oil to make a soft dough. Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface and knead, adding more flour as needed, until soft, smooth and a little sticky, about 10 minutes. Form into a ball, transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, turn to coat and cover with a damp tea towel. Let rise in a warm, draft-free place until doubled, about 1 hour.

Lightly oil a small baking sheet. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured work surface, and scatter a few of the grapes and figs across the surface, then knead them in. Repeat until all the fruit is incorporated.

Transfer the dough to the baking sheet and stretch it to make a roughly 10-inch oval. Cover loosely with a damp kitchen towel and let rise until doubled, about 1 hour.

Heat an oven to 400 degrees.

Remove the towel, and with your fingertips, push bits of the cheese into the dough. With your fingertips, dimple the surface of the dough, then brush with olive oil and sprinkle with the coarse sea salt. Bake until lightly brown, 35 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool 5 to 10 minutes before slicing it into wedges.

Pear, Arugula and Shaved Parmesan Salad

The tastes of sweet pears, peppery arugula and slightly salty Parmesan cheese align to make a refreshing salad to serve as a first course or to accompany a main dish. Add slices of prosciutto and a sprinkle of croutons, and the salad becomes a light lunch or supper. Adapted from “Market Memories Cookbook” by Ann M. Evans and Georgeanne Brennan.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
• 1 1/2 tablespoons Balsamic vinegar
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 3-4 ounce chunk of Parmesan cheese
• 4 cups arugula, any coarse stems removed
• 2 Bosc or other firm, ripe pears

DIRECTIONS

In a salad bowl, combine the olive oil, vinegar, salt and pepper and mix well. With a vegetable peeler, shave long, wide ribbons from the chunk of cheese. You’ll need about 16 pieces.

Add the arugula to the bowl with the olive oil mixture and turn well to coat. Place a mound of the dressed arugula on each of four salad plates.

Cut the pears in half lengthwise, and remove the seeds and core. Slice the pears, again, lengthwise, into thin pieces. Stack the mounded salad with sliced pears and sprinkle with shaved Parmesan and serve immediately.

Sauteed Pork Chops With Apples and Onions

This is a classic sweet-and-savory combination I often make in the fall and winter. Sometimes I add quince as well. Quick and easy to make, it yields satisfying comfort food, especially when served with a side of mashed potatoes.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 4 loin pork chops with bone, about 1 1/2 pounds
• 1 teaspoon sea salt
• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus more if needed
• 3 apples, such as Golden Delicious or Granny Smith, cored and cut into 1/2-inch thick slices
• 1 large onion, peeled and sliced crosswise

DIRECTIONS

Season the chops on both sides with half the salt and pepper. Set aside.

In a frying pan large enough to hold all the chops in a single layer, over medium-high heat, warm the butter. When it starts to foam, add the chops. Cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn and add the onions and apples, sauteing them. Add a little more butter if needed. After 3 or 4 minutes, when the undersides of the chops are golden, tuck some of the apples and onions beneath the chops. Add 1/4 cup of water, cover the frying pan and reduce heat to medium-low.

When the chops are cooked through and reach an internal temperature of 145 degrees, remove to a warm platter or 4 individual dinner plates. Spoon the onions and apples over the top or alongside the chops. Add another ¼ cup of water to the pan and increase the heat. Stir and reduce the pan juices to 1/4 cup. Pour over the chops and serve immediately.

Pear and Quince Crisp

A simple, seasonal dessert, this crisp could also be made with apples instead of quince, with only apples, pears, or quince, or with any combination of the above.

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS

Topping:

• 1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
• 1/4 teaspoon sea salt
• 1/2 teaspoon ground mace
• 1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
• 1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
• 1/2 cup firmly packed light brown sugar
• 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small bits

For the fruit:

• 1 1/2 pounds Asian or other pears, peeled and cored
• 1 1/2 pounds quince, peeled and cored
• 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/2 cup granulated sugar
• 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

DIRECTIONS

Heat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine all the topping ingredients in a bowl and toss with a spoon. Using your fingers, mix together just enough to form a crumbly mixture. Set aside.

Grease an 8-inch square baking dish with butter. Cut the pears and the quince lengthwise into 1/2-inch-thick slices and put them into a bowl. Stir in the lemon juice, sugar and flour, and put the mixture into the baking dish, spreading it evenly.

Sprinkle the topping over the fruit mixture. Bake until the topping is golden brown and the fruit juices are bubbling, about 30 to 35 minutes.

Remove from the oven and serve warm.

Pears Poached in Red Wine With Rosemary Whipped Cream

Poaching fall fruit in wine and then serving it with cream is an easy way to elevate pears, apples, or quince to a special dessert. The secret is to start with slightly underripe, firm fruit so that the fruit maintains its shape during cooking. Soft or overripe fruit will turn mushy. The French hold whole pears poached in red wine, or Poire au Vin Rouge, in especially high esteem.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 4 firm, slightly underripe pears such as d’Anjou or Bosc, peeled, stems attached
• 1 bottle dry red wine such as pinot noir, merlot or syrah
• 3 tablespoons sugar
• 1/2 cup heavy whipping cream
• 6 3-inch-long sprigs of fresh rosemary plus 1 tablespoon finely chopped rosemary

DIRECTIONS

In a saucepan just large enough to hold the pears on their sides, over medium-high heat, bring the wine and 2 tablespoons of the sugar to a boil. Cook, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved, 3 or 4 minutes. Add 2 of the rosemary sprigs. Reduce the heat, add the pears and poach, turning gently from time to time, until they offer scant resistance when pierced with the tines of a fork, 15 to 20 minutes. Do not overcook, or the pears will become mushy.

Transfer the pears and the poaching liquid to a glass or ceramic bowl and let stand for several hours at room temperature. Turn the pears from time to time. They will become a beautiful, deep garnet color as they absorb the wine.

In a bowl, mix the cream, remaining tablespoon of sugar and the rosemary. With an electric beater, whip until soft peaks form.

Return the poaching liquid to a saucepan over high heat, and reduce the wine to a thick syrup, about 10 minutes.

To serve, spoon a little of the whipped cream onto each of four dessert plates. Place a pear upright on each plate and drizzle each with a spoonful of the wine syrup. Garnish with the remaining rosemary sprigs.

Grilled Persimmon and Whipped Ricotta Crostini With Toasted Walnuts

One of my favorite appetizers is grilled fruit paired with a creamy cheese atop a cracker or crostini. In fall, my choice is persimmon, figs or pears, but in summer it’s peaches or nectarines.

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS

• 4 Fuyu persimmons (these are the firm, flattish ones)
• 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
• 8 slices baguette
• 1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
• 8 ounces whipped ricotta
• 1/2 cup walnut halves, toasted and coarsely chopped

DIRECTIONS

Cut the persimmons crosswise into slices a generous 1/4 inch thick. Remove the seeds, if any.

Using a little of the olive oil, brush the persimmon slices. Set aside.

Brush the baguette slices with some of the olive oil.

Over medium-high heat, heat a stovetop or outdoor grill. When it is ready, grill the slices of persimmon and baguette until slightly golden, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Remove and cut each slice of persimmon into 4 to 6 bite-size wedges and set aside.

Spread the warm baguette slices with the ricotta, top with persimmon slices and sprinkle with the chopped, toasted walnuts.

FALL FRUIT GUIDE

Persimmons

Hachiya: These are dark red-orange and heart-shaped, with a pointed tip. They are ripe when soft, and the pulp inside is almost jelly-like. This is the persimmon to use in baking. It can also be eaten out of hand.

Fuyu: Flat and crisp, bright pumpkin yellow-orange, these persimmons can be used raw in salads and on cheese boards, or they can be grilled as a side accompaniment to meats such as duck or pork or a topping for appetizers.

Quince

Quince are common and very popular throughout Europe, the Mediterranean, and the Middle East, but as a California crop, they remain slightly exotic. However, they are increasingly appearing in our local specialty produce sections and farmers’ markets. There are multiple varieties of this ancient fruit, but the three below are the ones most likely to be found in California. These are astringent and inedible until cooked. They can all be used culinarily in the same way – poached, sauteed and made into pies and crumbles. They can also be made into jelly or chutney. Membrillo, or quince paste, is a favorite in Spain and is excellent to pair with cheese.

Smyrna: Pear-shaped, slightly lumpy, very aromatic, pink-tinged flesh

Pineapple: Large, pear-shaped, faintly lumpy, light fragrance, mild flavor, most common in California

Orange: Round, lumpy with a floral fragrance when ripe, and smooth, white flesh

Pears

There are hundreds of pear varieties, many of them heirloom and dating back centuries, and they fall into two categories – European and Asian. To some extent, they can be treated culinarily the same way.

European pears are narrower at the top than bottom, sometimes with elongated necks; others are stouter with short necks. They originate from Europe and must be picked green, then left to ripen. If left to ripen on the tree, they lose their integrity and flavor, becoming soft and mealy. When purchased at a market, European pears usually need a few days to a week to ripen. I leave mine on the kitchen counter, testing them daily at the stem end for the slight softness that indicates they are fully ripe. Some, but not all, European pears change color from green to yellow.

Bosc: Russet-skinned with a long, curving neck, sweet, and firm-fleshed, this is an excellent, all-purpose pear for salads, sauteing and baking. It usually needs only a day or two at home to ripen but does not change color.

Bartlett: With green skin turning bright yellow on ripening, the classic pear shape and sweet, silky flesh, this pear is good for eating out of hand and in salads and, if slightly underripe, sautéing and baking.

Red Bartlett: This pear is the same as the Bartlett, but it’s red-skinned.

D’Anjou: A bulky oval with a short neck, this sweet, buttery pear does not change color. Eat out of hand or in salads or use for baking.

Red d’Anjou: This red pear is the same as the d’Anjou, but does not change color.

Asian pears are round, often large and range in color from russet to yellow, gold and pale greenish yellow. Their origins are in China and Japan, and unlike European pears, they are ready to eat when picked. They do not need a ripening period. Their flesh is crisp and juicy; the flavor sweet. Although there are hundreds of varieties, most markets only offer one or two. Small-scale pear farmers who attend farmers’ markets may have a larger selection and can guide you to the nuanced differences.

Asian pears have a higher water content than European pears and are best for eating out of hand or in salads and sauteing. They can be used in baking, but will act more like apples than European pears, retaining their shape and firm texture.

Apples

Like pears, there are hundreds of varieties of apples, and volumes of illustrated books have been written about them. Since growing conditions vary, some varieties are purely regional and are rarely available to California consumers. Should you spot an unfamiliar variety, I encourage you to try it.

Golden Delicious: A pale yellow-skinned, all-purpose apple on the sweet side

Granny Smith: A green-skinned, tart apple, especially good for baking

Pink Pearl: A greenish-yellow-to-pinkish-skinned small apple with a sweet, pink flesh, best for eating out of hand

Honey Crisp: An all-purpose apple with crisp flesh and skin streaked red and yellow that’s on the sweet side

Figs

There are dozens of varieties of figs, ranging in color from nearly black Mission Fig to the green-skinned, amber-fleshed Kadota. The ones listed below are most commonly found, but other varieties such as Calimyrna and White Genoa may appear at farmers markets. All the varieties may be treated the same way in the kitchen: Raw, stuffed with cheese or prosciutto, grilled to accompany roast meats and used in breads, cakes or tarts, sweet or savory. Fig jam is excellent as part of a cheese board. Underripe figs are bland and flavorless, so choose those that are soft, almost wrinkly, for full flavor.

Mission: Dark purple skin, almost black, with raspberry colored interior

Brown Turkey: Dark, reddish-brown skin, with pinkish interior

Kadota: Chartreuse, green skin, with amber-gold interior